|
|
|
Croatian Women’s Press:
Women Between the Kitchen and the Beauty Parlor
By:
Gordana Vilovic Croatia is a small country, with 4.2 million population, but in spite of the difficult economic situation, one gets an impression that investing into new weeklies and monthlies is still a profitable business. Of course, the market inevitability shows that newspapers are commodities just like any other, and that it has proven after several months already that newspapers sell on the market. Over the past ten or so years of full market liberalization, of some three hundred most varied press issues, some have survived, and a portion of magazines lasted for one or two issues. Specialized magazines did of course issue even before 1990, but over the past decade they have experienced a real boom: for various interest spheres, magazines have sprung up like mushrooms. For instance, today in Croatia there are several magazines dedicated exclusively to cell-phones, more than dozen are intended for internet fans and computers, and all the lovers of various forms of fishing have come into their own as well. Women’s papers and
reviews are not typical specialized papers such as the above mentioned, but
nevertheless they target a certain reader group – the women, and hence this
conditional specialization. Namely, even members of the opposite sex can
sometimes read a couple of lines in these magazines, although there are few of
those who will admit such a sin in the open. The recent surveys of the newspaper
market have proven that women are a thankful, loyal and massive-scale audience.
This may also be the reason why they are often targeted by publishers who bomb
them with various types of reviews and magazines. Even within the Yugoslav
market, the Croatian press used to have a rather strong tradition of creating
women’s papers, and in the recent years kiosks sell even up to ten or more
magazines bought by women. If we wish to make a
selection of those most important women’s magazines in Croatia today, then we
can say that the most important magazines, weeklies, bi-weeklies and monthlies
are the following: 'Gloria', 'Mila', 'Regina', 'Svijet', 'Tara', 'Tena' and 'Zaposlena
(The Employed Woman)'. In addition to these, there are also other “reviews for
modern women”, such as 'Moje tajne (My Secret)', 'Moje sudbine (My Destiny)',
'Istinite sudbine (True Stories)'. New titles are born overnight, but they also
die at the same quick rate. 'Gloria': the Bright Side of Jet-Set 'Gloria' is the most
famous women’s magazine, and also the best selling weekly in Croatia. The
exact circulation is not known, but there is information that the New Year’s
issue of Gloria was pressed in 160,000 copies. The average circulation is
estimated to exceed 120,000 copies. 'Gloria' has been holding this lead for
several years already. 'Gloria’s success story formula is very simple: it
records all the events in the world jet-set, but it is also trying to also keep
abreast with and cover all the important developments within the Croatian
community where the local high society is gathering (the Metropolis
column). These are most often theater or movies premieres, receptions at foreign
embassies, celebrations of national holidays, and the like. The majority of the
people photographed are posing and are very aware that they will show up in the
weekly issue of the magazine. The editorial team makes it very sure that the
photographs be decent and appropriate, and scandals are completely avoided. Such
an approach is welcome with the audience, and characters from some of the
columns respond to cooperation with the 'Gloria' team and they let in
journalists to their interestingly arranged homes (the My
Home column) – not even avoiding the view of their own bedrooms. The
privacy of public personae always attracts public attention, particularly when
it is known in advance that there will be no dirty laundry and that everything
is just like in a fairy tale. Because, 'Gloria'
is not the classical tabloid type. Inside it, everything is “polished”,
everything is shiny and printed on shiny paper, there is no poverty, no ugliness
or social injustice. Not at least when things involve people from Croatia who
are members of the society’s elite or jet-set. Evidently, celebrities (singers,
actors, journalists) are glad to invite or let in 'Gloria' journalists to their
own weddings, baptismal fetes of their own just born children, or to their newly
decorated homes. The readers who are mere mortals like to see and read such
things, because 'Gloria' sells well on the market. True, 'Gloria' has also
covered some less glorious events from the lives of celebrities, such as family
tragedies, funerals or divorces, but even then, care is applied in order to make
sure that the text content offends nobody. One more secret to 'Gloria'’s
success lies in covering soap operas. Given that South American tele-novels are
popular, 'Gloria' has been regular in publishing exclusive interviews with the
main characters on their private lives. How much cost-effective and marketable
this is, is proven by the information that in the summer of 2001 'Gloria'
has published a separate issue on the destinies of main characters from
tele-novels who have attracted the attention of female and male readers on the
various televisions in Croatia over the past several years. Of course, just like
all women’s magazines, 'Gloria' has permanent columns on beauty, fashion
trends, recipes, horoscopes, crosswords, sex and romance permanent column,
intimate women’s topics column, new perfumes, a full love story, and the like.
'Gloria'
has its readers even beyond Croatia. A portion of 'Gloria'’s circulation
is sold in Bosnia and Herzegovina. How significant this portion is corroborated
by the fact that the editorial team is taking some serious thought to publish a
mutant edition for Bosnia and Herzegovina. Interestingly, when you
ask public personae or highly educated normal people whether or not they read
'Gloria', the majority of them replies that they only “skim” or “regularly
browse” it, but practically nobody replies that they do read this paper.
Whether they only browse or read it after all, 'Gloria' is ultimately a very
successful and profitable product of the Europapress Holding, the largest
private press house in Croatia. All other papers of its kind significantly lag
behind in ratings and popularity. 'Mila': Something for Simple Mortals 'Mila' is a weekly
intended for women, issuing for almost thirteen years in Croatia. When 'Mila'
started issuing, there was only one paper for women in Croatia - 'Svijet'. At
the time, appearance of one more specialized paper for a specific reader group
was a sheer revolution. And it was a fundamental question of the publisher
whether and how the market would contain two papers. This immediately proved to
be a good business move. 'Mila' had a conception totally different from that of
'Svijet' and from all those other women’s magazines at the time published in
former Yugoslavia, although the content was the same: fashion, fashion trends,
tips, sex, make-up, recipes, diets, consumer guides, short love stories, etc.
The decisive thing was in the presentation of those contents: conciseness, brief
texts and clear language, and a bunch of small color photographs scattered over
the pages of 'Mila'. Graphic-wise, 'Mila' has retained the same layout until the
present day, while the contents have changed and adjusted to the needs of the
loyal readers. Now too it is a weekly full of brief texts, tips and small format
photographs-illustrations – depending on the season of the year coming. In
comparison with the tips earlier, 'Mila' of today gives more room to its female
readers, paying them fees for their stories on successful diets, their love
affairs and photographs of their children. In those terms, 'Mila' is more
directed towards the so-called ordinary woman or whatever this may understand,
than towards the jet-set. This editorial policy ensures loyal readership, albeit
much smaller in number than that of 'Gloria'. Interestingly, both
'Mila' and 'Gloria' are published by
the Europapress Holding publishing company, thus covering a very broad range of
interests with women’s audience, involving a hefty portion of the market cake.
'Regina': for the New Generation 'Regina' is the
youngest women’s bi-weekly in Croatia. The editors say that this is “the
first Croatian women’s tabloid”. 'Regina'
brings news on the latest jet-set events in the world and in Croatia on a
smaller number of pages, but it does not shrink from publishing celebrity
photographs made by paparazzi. This is by all means a novelty in the world of
Croatian women’s magazines. What makes 'Regina'
a truly women’s magazine are various tips, fashion trends, interviews with
famous Croat women who boldly answer even the questions related to sex, marriage,
perception of men, and the like. You could say that 'Regina' is getting prepared
for the new generation of self-reliant young women, those who have practically
grown up on 'Cosmopolitan' and who find nothing female-related strange. 'Regina' is issued by
the private publisher Bifora d.o.o. from Rijeka. It is hard to determine the
circulation, but given that it can be found at the kiosks, it means that it is
still issuing and finding its circle of readers. 2.4. 'Svijet': Tradition at Its Last Gasp 'Svijet' is the oldest
Croatian magazine for women. The paper started issuing as early as before the
Second World War, and in a revised edition it appeared back in 1953. It lived
its golden moments back in mid-seventies, when it was the only magazine intended
for female readers in Croatia. At the time, it also sold very well in the former
Yugoslavia as well. In addition to promoting fashion trends, the paper was
constantly developing columns and responding the needs of the contemporary
moment. Then it was a socially engaged paper with a number of good reportages.
Such a paper had an educative function first of all, and it was only then that
it was entertaining. In early nineties, the magazine stopped issuing to reappear
in mid-nineties as a private edition under the same title. Since then, however,
under the changed social circumstances, when the market was reduced down to
Croatia only, and in competition with several more magazines for women, 'Svijet'
has been fighting to survive. In a flood of various papers for women, 'Svijet'
has continued the tradition of the “old”, bringing interesting reportages
and travelogues, interviews with Croatian writers, and providing portraits of
some prominent names from the movies, arts and theatre, in addition to the
normal contents of women’s magazines. The circulation of 'Svijet' is not known,
but it is evidently not that large to impose any serious threats on 'Gloria' or
'Mila'. In spite of 'Svijet'
being a monthly maintaining high standards in specialized women’s paper, the
magazine has lost the role it had some twenty years ago, because it has not
adjusted its contents to the needs of its target audience. 'Tara': Lack of Distinctiveness In following the needs
of the market, probably arising from the need to issue a magazine that would be
more successful on the market, the 'Svijet' editorial team started issuing
'Tara'. The magazine 'Tara' differs
significantly from 'Svijet'. The very title of the magazine says that this is
“the magazine for beauty, fashion and healthy living”. Graphic-wise, 'Tara'
looks alike 'Mila' or 'Tena', with
abundance of brief information, summarized texts and tips for general life
improvement (“Fight Tiredness”, “Learn to Meditate”, “Good Plan –
Good Sex”). 'Tara' contains all the elements of the classical women’s
magazine: ranging from fashion trends to horoscopes and unavoidable recipes for
good cuisine. What new and undiscovered contents this women’s magazine offers,
it is hard to tell. There is also an outstanding question as to the market
ratings of the paper and how long it will last, given that it has not yet
managed to secure a profile of its distinction and recognizability – and this
is most often the recipe for a market failure or at least for a doubtful success.
'Tena': A Little Bit of Everything As its title says
“the review for the modern woman”, 'Tena' weekly could briefly be commented
as treading the path of its elder sister 'Mila'. Since the weekly is starting
its third year of issuing, it has evidently found its place under the sun, in
spite of the strong competition among women’s magazines in Croatia. Fashion
and make-up, healthy living, celebrities, various diets, tips, cuisine and
recipes, all of these are topics that are inevitably included in this “review
for the modern woman” as well. The texts are brief and concise, and the
photographs are smaller in format, mainly functioning as illustrations for the
texts and tips. 'Zaposlena (The Career Woman)': Woman as an (after all) Political Being In the shop window
containing a large number of reviews, magazines and papers for women, ultimately
we have to mention an untypical “magazine for the successful woman” - 'Zaposlena
(The Career Woman)'. The magazine started issuing in early nineties and as a
very modern review, of a little bit of elitist contents, addresses a narrow
group of female readers. The cover page is always clear, always equally designed
from the very beginning of its issuing. This is regularly the portrait of a
successful woman: a scientist, a politician or an artist, as an overture to a
big interview with her in that issue. Each issue is thematically specific: one
current topic is shed light on from all aspects. The magazine does not have a
high circulation (we estimate it at some 6,000 copies) and this is mainly in
subscription. Graphic-wise, the magazine is arranged carefully, the undersigners
of texts and columns are women – public workers, writers or reputable public
personae. This elitist approach has contributed to that 'Zaposlena' has never
acquired a profile of a populist paper, and that it has retained the image
created in the very beginning of issuing. What is worthy mentioning is that 'Zaposlena'
has always been an engaged women’s magazine and has always had a critical
approach towards social phenomena produced by the rule of the HDZ Croat
Democratic Community. We had only just thought that the woman is a being
residing only in the kitchen and in beauty parlors… By Way of Conclusion Following this brief
description of a wealth of papers and magazines for women in Croatia, a
conclusion can be drawn that newspaper publishers can be satisfied at how their
'Tena's, 'Tara's, 'Regina's, 'Gloria's and others sell. There are mainly no
exact figures available, but the magazines are still issuing. Although everything
seems to be already read, editors always make efforts anew to teach the female
readers how women can be beautiful on the vacation and which 20 new hairstyles
are trendy, or how to lose five kilograms in two weeks. Recipes, and
particularly the sex dossier have always been attractive topics of all women’s
reviews, even though there may be some nebulous titles or psycho tests on
“planning a successful partner relationship”. Critical cuts in any
magazine selling and successfully surviving on the market – are not popular.
As long as the magazine has its audience and as long as it sells well, it means
that there is a significant number of readers buying that paper, even if it may
be on the brink of petty bourgeois manners. This is humane, too. Or womanly,
otherwise… Successful editors are those who know how to resell the millionth
time chewed topic of 'depilation for eternity'. And they do it successfully each
June in the topic “prepare yourself for the summer”. Anything beyond this
framework will not sell even some ten thousands of papers. The question is
whether it is up to the press or up to the women.
And finally, a confession to make: the author of this text herself
sometimes “browses” through some of these magazines, let us not say reads a
saucy detail on relationships of Julia Roberts here and there or takes a careful
look at the photographs of the Croatian jet-set gathered at the recent premiere
of “King Lear” in Brijuni. Mea
culpa, mea maxima culpa... Gordana
Vilovic manages the 'Freedom Forum' center at the Faculty of Political Sciences
of the Zagreb University (Croatia). Translated by: B.R. ©Media Online 2001. All
rights reserved. source: Media Online, 28-08-2001 |
|